HEY!

*gegege, si gila tersayang*

hahaha, lama tak update. Busy, orang jauh dah balik. hahaha. So, just upload some pictures pastu nak tido. Besok nak jalan jauh, hahaha.

seyes weyh, saye ade WACOM. korang yang kate saye tipu tu memang sampah la kan. ingat saye ni hina sangat ke nak menipu?... huuuh...!

my humble ride

just my humble ride, honda wave 110. i appreciate it so much, as it always with me through sun and rains. *sigh* i need my car back, but i still didn't have license for it.

repost: Asas Fotografi

Hellow lagi... yer, sekarang Isnin jam 3;10 am waktu tempatan, dan Ahad jam 5;56 pm waktu London... ye saye tak tido lagi sebab mulut tengah berbual kosong dengan En VanZiq. huhuhu... jadi nak mengelakkan mengantuk mari ber-blog sambil mengumpat. muahahaha...

Baiklah, kali ni kita akan tengok 3 perkara paling asas dalam fotografi iaitu shutter speed, aperture dan ISO. Korang kena kuasai ketiga-tiga konsep ni. Kalau tak akan terjadilah gambar blur, tak sharp, terlalu terang/terlalu gelap dan bagai-bagai lagilah yang korang selalu mengomel setiap kali korang amek gambor, haaa... jangan ingat saye tak tau... hohoho, sesungguhnya saya insan biasa, saya pon mengalami keadaan tersebut satu ketika dahulu. okey, back to topic, Shutter speed, aperture dan ISO mempengaruhi exposure. Gelap atau terang sesuatu gambar bergantung kepada exposure.

Exposure = Shutter Speed + Aperture + ISO

Shutter Speed

• Shutter speed adalah jangka masa shutter terbuka. Semakin lama shutter terbuka, semakin banyak cahaya masuk dan sebaliknya.
• Dikira dalam unit saat bermula dari BULB (shutter terbuka selagi menekan shutter) 30 saat hingga 1/8000 saat.
• Untuk mengelakkan gambar blur, gunakan shutter tidak kurang dari 1/60. Kalau korang guna di bawah 1/60, cth 1/50, gunakan tripod.

Aperture

• Aperture merupakan bukaan iris pada lens.
• Dikira dalam unit F, bermula pada F1.4 – F32 – bergantung pada lens, ada lens mempunyai aperture bermula dari F1.4 dan ada yang bermula dari F3.5
• Semakin besar nilai aperture (cth: F22), semakin kecil bukaan lens dan semakin sedikit cahaya yang masuk dan sebaliknya, semakin kecil nilai aperture, semakin besar bukaan dan semakin banyak cahaya masuk.

ISO

• ISO pulak kesensitifan sensor terhadap cahaya. Kalau dulu orang pakai filem dan setiap filem tu ada gred atau nombor seperti 100, 200, dan 400 bergantung kepada tempat yang kita nak shot. Kalau korang nak shot kat tempat yang cerah, biasanya filem 100 atau 200 dan sebaliknya, kalau korang nak shot dalam keadaan yang kurang cahaya seperti waktu malam, korang kena pakai filem 400 dan keatas.
• Pada zaman sekarang, filem dah digantikan dengan sensor. So sensor tu kita boleh adjust ISO nya, tak macam dulu, korang kena beli filem yang berasingan.
• Semakin tinggi ISO, semakin sensitif sensor/filem terhadap cahaya, so korang boleh ambik gambar di tempat yang gelap tanpa menggelapkan gambar tersebut dan begitulah sebaliknya.
• Tapi kena ingat, semakin tinggi ISO, ‘noise’ juga akan semakin kelihatan.

okey? tak okey? isk isk isk, teruk ni kalau tak ok lagi... ni dah masuk kali ke-2 saye post pasal bende ni, tapi yang sebelum ni posting adalah dalam bahasa Inggeris. Mungkin ia menyukarkan beberapa pihak, tapi sekarang saye dah translate dan men-simple-kan lagi penerangan. kalau tak paham jugak la kan, senang je... korang angkut camera korang dang segalanya yang berkaitan termasuk sekali tripod, bagi jela kat saye. Mungkin camera korang tu takde jodoh dengan korangkan... manalatau, mungkin jodoh dia dengan saye ke... muahahhaa~

anyway pon, enjoy dan harap ni membantu korang...

cheerioous~!! (◕‿◕✿)

UPM 34th Convocation: Ku 'Kuvzy' Hafizi

last few days saye willingly pergi shoot some pictures for beloved fotomaniac frend, Kuvzy, for his graduation day (12th oct 10)... it didn't came out as i want, but it came out ok-ok, cant complaint more, i'm just newby~

ade banyak sangat gambo tapi sye upload sket jer~
so take a look, and give comment if u please~

Saya Anak Malaysia!

Graduation/Convocation Photoshoot

Graduation is a special time in our lives, whether you’re graduating, or a relative. Either way it’s a huge milestone that you’ll want to remember. It can be so disappointing when your graduation photos don't turn out well. Here are tips to help you take fabulous photos of that special day.

Proper preparation

Make sure you’re camera is in good working order, your memory cards are clear, packed and ready, and your batteries are charged. When there is a big event that I want to take pictures of, I usually try to take care of this the night before so I won’t be running around like a madman the morning of the event if I discover, say, the batteries are dead.

Get up-close and personal

Try to get close to the stage, either by getting a seat close or asking the school where you can take pictures. They may not let you get right next to the stage, but it never hurts to ask. If possible, use a telephoto lens or a camera with a decent optical zoom lens.

Don't be a pose-eur

Not all photos have to be staged and planned in advance. Candids are sometimes the best photos you’ll ever capture. Think of all the touching and special moments that precede and follow a graduation: hugging family members, dressing in the graduation robes, chatting with friends afterwards. Capture all the smiles, hugs and tears that you can, when you can. It will all be over before you know it.

Get on the other side

Don’t forget to include yourself. Ask a friend or family member to take a few pictures of you with the graduate. It's so easy to get obsessed with taking pictures that you forget none will feature you. You could arrange to split up time between yourself and another person.

See the light

If you're shooting outside, try to position the sun so it is to the side, not directly behind you (the shooter) or the graduate. This will avoid forcing the graduate to squint or become an unpleasant silhouette. It can also help to use the flash. This will get ride of some of the harsh shadows on the graduate from the sun.

This is a rare opportunity to catch possibly a once-in-a-lifetime moment. These tips can help your photos shine.

cheerioous~!! (◕‿◕✿)

Basics On DSLR

okey, saye punye yg kecik tu je, yg besar tu Si Kacax yg punye...

ni ade sket2 tips utk korg2 yg baru belajar pki DSLR (termasuk saye skali), same2 la kite renung2 kan...
sorry, dalam B.I, malas nak translate, copy&paste ajer...
ape2 pun,
enjoy!

What do camera settings mean?

Sometimes when explaining how to take a certain kind of picture, photographers mention the camera’s settings and what manual modes are used for the picture. These settings look much like this: f/2.8, 1/125s, 400mm, ISO: 200. (Other settings may include white balance, saturation, or image sharpness, but I’m not going to get into that.) These are the lens’s and sensor’s specifications during the shot are are controlled automatically by the camera in Point and Shoot (P&S) models, or manually by the photographer on the lens or in manual mode (M), program mode (P), aperture priority (A or Av), shutter priority (S or Tv), the camera’s zoom controls and internal digital camera menus.

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So what do all these things mean? Let’s take them one at a time…

Part 1: Explanation of the modes (M, P, A/Av, and S/Tv)

Part 2: Explanation of the settings these modes control (f-number, shutter speed, viewing angle (zoom), and ISO)

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Part 1: Explanation of the modes (M, A/Av, S/Tv, P)

Typical camera dial showing various camera modes.

(The terms, “shutter speed,” “f-number,” and “aperture,” are explained below in Part 2)

M (manual mode) – In manual mode, you have control over both the shutter speed and f-number without the camera doing any automatic exposure calculations. There is often an indicator or a bar showing if your chosen values of the shutter speed and f-number will produce an over-exposed shot, and under-exposed shot, or a properly exposed shot, though it does not take into account special lighting conditions which would cause you take full control.

A or Av (aperture priority) – In aperture priority mode, you tell the camera to use a specific aperture (f-number), and the camera calculates the shutter speed needed to produce a properly exposed shot. You can also tell the camera to over-expose or under-expose the shot by a certain amount, and it will take this into account when calculating the shutter speed.

S or Tv (shutter priority) - In shutter priority mode, you specify a shutter speed for the camera to use and it calculates the corresponding f-number needed to properly expose the shot. As in aperture priority mode, you can instruct the camera with regards to how the image should be exposed.

P (program mode) – In program mode, you tell the camera to make a type of balance between an f-number or shutter speed, so it will try to use a specific value for one or both of these, but it will be able to vary from these values, if need be. As with aperture and shutter priority modes, you can tell the camera to under-expose or over-expose the shot.

ISO settings are usually accessed though the camera’s menus. Zoom is usually set with wide-angle/telephoto buttons, often found at the upper-right of the back side of the camera.

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Part 2: Explanation of the settings: f-number, shutter speed, viewing angle (zoom), and ISO
(For information on what the modes do and how they work, refer to Part 1)

f-number: f/2.8 (Use A/Av, P or M mode) – This is called the f-number or f-stop and refers to the aperture (shutter opening) size. There are many common aperture sizes, often denoted by f/[a number] (that number usually being a multiple of 1.4 or 2), which are used when photographing in various situations. The f-number can be written in different ways. For example, instead of writing f/2.8, the f-number might be written as F2.8, f-2.8, or even as 2.8. As you can see from the below aperture diagram, the larger the number, the smaller the aperture. A complete f-stop increase or decrease (like from f/8 to f/5.6 or from f/2.8 to f/4 respectively) doubles or halves the aperture size and amount of light entering the camera.

Diagram showing common f-stop aperture values.

Don’t be confused by the numbers, though. You might think to say that a larger number should mean a larger opening. However, if you’ll notice, f is being divided by that number, so, mathematically, it makes sense that the larger the number, the smaller the total aperture size. Practically speaking, now, the lower the f-number, the more light comes in through the lens and the narrower the depth of field (DOF — distance from the camera in which objects are in focus).

shutter speed: 1/125s (Use S/Tv, P or M mode) – Shutter speed. The shutter speed is the length of time the aperture remains open for a given exposure. The shutter speed is given in a similar format to the aperture: 1 divided by a number. For example, 1/500 means that the shutter will be open for one five-hundredths of a second. As is the case with the aperture, shutter speeds can be denoted in various ways, including 1/125s, 1/125 or just by 125. The larger the number, the shorter the shutter speed. When the shutter speed is one second or longer, it is often indicated by 1″ or 1s. Fast shutter speeds (like 1/1000s) are used when trying to freeze action but decrease the amount of light entering the camera which must be compensated by widening the aperture, increasing the ISO (explained below), or by using photo-editing programs. Slow shutter speeds, like 2s, are often used for night shots or when trying to show motion. If it is bright where the picture will be taken, but one wants to show motion, one may shrink the aperture, use a low ISO, or use polarizer or neutral-density (ND) filters to block out the light.

zoom (viewing angle): 400mm (Wide-angle/Telephoto Zoom controls) – x mm (millimeters) refers to the focal length of the lens and is the camera’s zoom. The “standard” focal length is 35mm and has a viewing angle which is close to that of the non-peripheral part of the human eye sees. When the mm number increases or decreases, the camera is zoomed in more or less, respectively. For those who think in basic terms of “x times zoom,” let us call 35mm “1 x zoom” (although actual times zoom will vary by camera and lens), since 35mm is generally the standard, widest-angle on most attached-lenses cameras. When the mm is doubled, to 70mm, you are now at 2x zoom. Similarly, a camera at 2x zoom probably is at around 70mm. 400mm would be 11.5x zoom. Greater “zooms” (higher mm numbers – telephoto shots) lead to narrower DOFs. Photos of flowers, insects and other macros are often shot at high zoom with a close focus to make the object large in the photograph and stand out against the background or foreground. Wider-angle mm numbers, like 18mm (or 0.5x zoom), lead to very wide DOFs and are often used in landscapes to take in the whole scene.

ISO: 200 (Internal camera menus) – The ISO setting refers to the “film speed” or sensor sensitivity to light. Common ISOs are 50, 64, 100, 200, 300, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1600 and 3200. The ISO is directly proportional to the amount of light it senses. In basic terms, higher ISOs mean the sensor (or film) is more sensitive to light, while lower ISOs mean the sensor will be less sensitive to light. The main downside to higher ISOs is that high ISOs lead to noisy and grainy photos with less details. (Photo noise is two or more colors which are similar in brightness or color to one another showing up where only one solid color should exist.) Low ISOs are usually used in long-time-exposures (LTEs) because they are less-sensitive to light and better preserve detail than high ISOs.

cheerioous~!! (◕‿◕✿)

5 Easy Steps Using Lightroom

Found this online, i'm very grateful. Seriously, i'm in worst situation when using Lightroom. So, i'm happy to share up with everyone else. -lot love,Neo-

The Lightroom Graduated Filter tool can be used to add a secondary light source to an image where one was not in existence when you shot it. This often works better to rescue an unexposed area of an image than, for example, applying a Shadow/Highlight fix in Photoshop.

1. This image is extremely dark on the right – a problem caused by capturing the carousel horse in broad daylight on a very sunny day..

2. After adjusting the Exposure in Lightroom and tweaking the image using the small Recovery, Clarity and Vibrance sliders the image is still dark in areas where I would like to see more of the detail in the underlying image.

3. To bring in some light on the right, click the Graduated Filter tool and drag the selector in from the right edge of the image so that the midpoint of the filter is over the point where the problem ceases to exist (around the level of the carousel horse’s eye).

4. With the Effect Sliders visible, increase the Exposure and then, if desired, adjust the Brightness and Clarity sliders. Click Close when done.

5. In many cases you will find the Graduated Filter gives better results than, for example, the Shadows/Highlights filter in Photoshop and it’s a lot less work.